The Coloration of Wool and Other Keratin Fibres
SDC-Society of Dyers and Colourists Series

Keratin fibres, particularly wool fibres, constitute an important natural raw material in textiles due to their comfort and thermal proprieties. Wool coloration demands an understanding of the complex nature of the interplay between wool fibre chemistry, morphology and the coloration processes.

The Coloration of Wool and other Keratin Fibres is a comprehensive treatment, written by leading international experts, of the chemistry and chemical processes involved in wool dyeing, printing, preparation and finishing.

The book covers: 

• the chemical and physical structure of wool keratin fibres, detailing their complex heterogeneity and the subtle links between fibre structure and dyeability
• the coloration of fabrics containing wool, including a variety of wool blends such as wool/silk, wool/polyester and wool/cotton, and luxury keratin fibres such as mohair, cashmere and camel
• the chemistry of the various types of dyes utilised in wool dyeing and in-depth discussions on the physical properties to optimise these processes
• practical application of dyes to wool in all its forms, loose stock, combed tops, yarns and piece goods, is covered in the chapter on wool dyeing machinery
• two chapters, one on bleaching and whitening and one on dyeing human hair, provide a valuable extension to the topic of cosmetic chemistry

The Coloration of Wool and other Keratin Fibres is essential reading for professionals world-wide working in companies involved in the dyeing and printing of wool, wool blends and other keratin fibres and also for the producers of dyes and auxiliary dyeing agents. It is a valuable resource for teachers and students of universities and technical institutes, as well as for researchers who are focusing their investigations on wool, wool blends, human hair or dyes and auxiliaries.


Published in partnership with the Society of Dyers and Colourists (SDC).
Find out more at www.wiley.com/go/sdc

List of Contributors xv

Society of Dyers and Colourists xvii

Preface xix

1 The Structure of Wool 1
John A. Rippon

1.1 Introduction 1

1.2 Composition of Wool 2

1.3 Chemical Structure of Wool 5

1.4 Morphological Structure of Wool 14

1.5 Chemical Reactivity of Wool 32

1.6 Damage in Wool Dyeing 32

1.7 Conclusion 35

References 35

2 The Chemical and Physical Basis for Wool Dyeing 43
John A. Rippon

2.1 Introduction 43

2.2 The Chemical Basis for Wool Dyeing 43

2.3 Standard Affinity and Heat of Dyeing 50

2.4 Classification of Dyes Used for Wool 52

2.5 Dye Aggregation 55

2.6 The Role of Fibre Structure in Wool Dyeing 60

2.7 Effect of Chemical Modifications on Dyeing 66

2.8 Conclusion 68

References 69

3 The Role of Auxiliaries in the Dyeing of Wool and other Keratin Fibres 75
A.C. Welham

3.1 Introduction 75

3.2 Surface Activity of Wool-Dyeing Auxiliaries 76

3.3 Brightening Agents 81

3.4 Levelling Agents 82

3.5 Restraining and Reserving Agents in Wool Blend Dyeing 88

3.6 Antiprecipitants 89

3.7 Wool Protective Agents 89

3.8 Low-Temperature Dyeing 90

3.9 Correction of Faulty Dyeings 92

3.10 Aftertreatments to Improve Wet Fastness 93

3.11 Antifrosting Agents 95

3.12 Antisetting Agents 95

3.13 Sequestering Agents 96

3.14 Conclusion 96

References 97

4 Ancillary Processes in Wool Dyeing 99
D.M. Lewis

4.1 Introduction 99

4.2 Wool Scouring 99

4.3 Wool Carbonising 100

4.4 Shrink-Resist Treatments 102

4.5 Insect-Resist Treatments 108

4.6 Flame-Retardant Treatments 115

4.7 Antisetting Agents 116

4.8 Fibre Arylating Agents 120

References 126

5 Bleaching and Whitening of Wool: Photostability of Whites 131
Keith R. Millington

5.1 Introduction 131

5.2 Wool Colour 132

5.3 Wool Bleaching 138

5.4 Fluorescent Whitening of Wool 144

5.5 Photostability of Wool 145

References 153

6 Wool-dyeing Machinery 157
Jamie A. Hawkes and Paul Hamilton

6.1 Introduction 157

6.2 Top Dyeing 158

6.3 Loose Stock Dyeing 162

6.4 Hank-Dyeing Yarn 166

6.5 Yarn Package Dyeing 171

6.6 Piece Dyeing 178

6.7 Garment Dyeing 179

6.8 Carpet Piece Dyeing 182

6.9 Drying 183

6.10 Dyehouse Automation 186

6.11 Laboratory Dyeing 192

References 203

7 Dyeing Wool with Acid and Mordant Dyes 205
P.A. Duffield

7.1 Introduction 205

7.2 Acid Dyes 208

7.3 Natural Dyes 213

7.4 Mordant Dyes 214

7.5 Specific Dyeing Methods 226

References 227

8 Dyeing Wool with Metal-complex Dyes 229
Stephen M. Burkinshaw

8.1 Introduction 229

8.2 Dye Structure 230

8.3 Dye Application 242

8.4 Environmental Aspects 248

References 248

9 Dyeing Wool with Reactive Dyes 251
D.M. Lewis

9.1 Introduction 251

9.2 Commercial Reactive Dyes for Wool 252

9.3 The Chemistry of Reactive Dyes 253

9.4 Application Procedures 260

9.5 Novel Reactive Dye Systems for Wool 281

9.6 Identification of the Reaction Sites in the Fibre 285

9.7 Conclusion 287

References 287

10 Dyeing Wool Blends 291
D.M. Lewis

10.1 Introduction 291

10.2 Wool/Cotton 293

10.3 Amination of Cellulosic Fibres 303

10.4 Wool/Silk 305

10.5 Wool/Nylon 310

10.6 Wool/Polyester 323

10.7 Wool/Acrylic 341

10.8 Conclusion 351

References 352

11 The Coloration of Human Hair 357
Robert M. Christie and Olivier J.X. Morel

11.1 Introduction 357

11.2 Structure and Morphology of Human Hair 359

11.3 Natural Colour of Hair 360

11.4 Physical Chemistry of Hair Dyeing 364

11.5 Toxicology of Hair Dyes 365

11.6 Oxidative Hair Coloration 366

11.7 Alternative Approaches to Permanent Hair Dyeing 369

11.8 Nonoxidative Hair Dyeing 375

11.9 Conclusion 386

References 387

12 Wool Printing 393
P.J. Broadbent and M.L.A. Rigout

12.1 Introduction 393

12.2 Preparation for Printing 394

12.3 Direct Printing 399

12.4 Discharge Printing 405

12.5 Resist Printing 408

12.6 Digital Printing 412

12.7 Wool Blends 418

12.8 Cold Print Batch 420

12.9 Transfer Printing 421

12.10 Novel Effects 425

References 426

Index

Color plate

Editors
David M. LewisDepartment of Colour Science, University of Leeds, UK

John A. RipponCSIRO Materials Science and Engineering, Australia